Thursday, January 8, 2009

Baltic Candles

Back in the U.S. since December 28th, but despite warm weather, snowed under in work of various kinds. We hosted a dozen people for New Year's Eve, then had the painter/carpenter in for more touch-up work on the house, and now I have house guests for a week. But I did want to convey some moments from the Frankfurt Sacred Night Market (Weihnachtsmarkt).

The weather was none too clement, mizzling rain and accompanying cold, but the three of us: my spouse, his brother and I: sallied forth in good humor nonetheless. The brightly lit booths illuminated the night, and the curtains of chilly precipitation. Two carousels were in full operation, with cheerful tunes and happy ranks of riders. And our mood was soon lifted further by hot mugs of Gluehwein (mulled wine)!

What really lifted my spirits most were the many craft booths. Almost no mass-produced Chinese or equivalent throw-away stuff. Gloves, wooden ornaments and toys, artwork, sculpture, blown glass -- even a booth heavy with witch dolls, dressed in cloaks of many colors, full of glitter, with knowing eyes.

We hadn't managed to get there until almost 7 p.m. and everything closed down at 9, so we hurried along, stopping again for what we thought would be egg nog but what turned out to be a hot egg drink (fortunately just as potently laced with alcohol), and then again for sausages grilled on the spot, and then again for Belgian fries with curry sauce. Yum!

Just as things were starting to shut down, I spotted a small booth selling honey and hand-made candles. Sometimes my gut instinct tells me exactly where to go. I left the men and started talking to the couple, who were from East Prussia.

East Prussia and the Baltic states (Lithuania, Latvia, Estonia) are one region where their long-time adherence to the Old Religion i.e. Paganism is concerned. In parts of this geographical area, Paganism persisted well into the 19th century, and in some families it never really vanished. I studied the candles and found several I was immediately drawn to, particularly one honoring the queen bee. But then I spotted a particular image:

A head, as archaic as those on Easter Island, which had obviously been carved out of a monumental tree stump, a wood and perhaps thatch "hat" on its head. The man of the forest, the Green Man. With bees crawling from the base toward his mouth.

The couple explained that these carvings are still made in rural East Prussia. The carved tree stump contains the bee hive, and is believed to protect the farmstead.

We managed to discover a second one in the booth. I bought them both, wrapped them carefully, and brought them safely back here, where they sit on my altar.

One of those magical incidents that make a trip instantly memorable, Goddess-blessed. I'll do a little more research on this figure and share anything I find with you!

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